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Next week, we celebrate Columbus Day and pay homage to Christopher Columbus' discovery of the New World. With this holiday on the horizon, I thought it'd be a perfect occasion to explain, explore, and enjoy the differences (and in some cases, similarities!) of New World and Old World wines.
First, let's start with a brief primer. Where wine
comes from is most often categorized as either "Old World" or "New World." Old World wine regions include Europe and parts of the Mediterranean. New World wines are from newer wine-producing regions such as the U.S., South America, Australia, and New Zealand.
In addition, if you take a look at different wine labels, you'll notice that
Old World wines are typically referred to by their
REGION (Rioja, Bordeaux, Tuscany, etc,) while
New World Wines are typically referred to by their
GRAPE (Cabernet, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, etc.).
One of the biggest differences between Old and New World wines is the laws that govern how the wines are made. In the New World, there are few restrictions and winemakers generally have more flexibility and freedom to craft grapes in the manner they desire. The Old World, on the other hand, follows a wildly stringent set of rules that specify a wide range of provisions and instructions, including what grape varieties can be planted, maximum yields, which techniques can or can not be used to make the wine, and the use of oak, just to name a few. They were originally established to ensure the wines maintained a certain quality. Nowadays, many winemakers feel these rules are archaic and need to adapt given factors such as climate and viticulture changes, as well as advances in winemaking.
Just at Columbus conducted many voyages back and forth, from Old World to New World and back, diversifying and discovering the distinct wines of both worlds, is important for your palate. In my frank
opinion, there is no such thing as one "world" producing better wines than the other. And, they may...or may not...taste different! To help illustrate that point, I recently did a blind tasting with Mr. Vino of a Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand (New World) and one from France (Old World). We also compared and contrasted a Merlot from Washington (New World) with a Merlot/Cabernet Sauvignon blend from France (Old World). Bottom line: all four wines were amazing, just different in structure, taste, and intensity. They say that has to do with "terroir"...what do you think?
CHEERS!
NEW WORLD WHITE:
Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc, 2012, Marlborough, New Zealand
This showstopper from the New World is one of my all-time favorite sauvignon blancs. It is elegant and structured with a beautiful balance and notes of elderflower, peaches, and lime zest. Crisp and light on the palate with a smooth, silky, and refreshing finish, this gorgeous white is perfect to sip on an Indian summer type of day or with appetizers or hors d'oeuvres prior to dinner. It's also the ideal libation to pair with grilled chicken dishes, simply prepared fish, and sushi.
These A-list grapes hail from estate and grower vineyards in the Rapaura, Fairhall, Renhill, and Brancott sub-regions of the Wairau Valley of Marlborough in New Zealand. Sauvignon Blanc is considered the country's flagship varietal and constitutes more than 80% of New Zealand's exports.
Cloudy Bay, named after the bay at the eastern edge of Wairau Valley, grows primarily Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, and Pinot Noir and a few varieties of Gewurztraminer, Riesling, and Pinot Gris.
Wine Notes
Bouquet/Taste: Elderflower, peaches, lime zest
Finish: Long, refreshing, crisp, and silky
Price: Approximately $25
OLD WORLD WHITE:
Jean-Paul Picard Sancerre, 2011, Loire Valley, France
This Sancerre, from the Loire Valley in France, is made from 100% Sauvignon Blanc grapes. It is full-bodied on the palate and presents more of an overall roundness and smoothness in taste and less of the crispness and zestiness found in the Cloudy Bay.
It is also packed with the typical characteristics of Loire Valley Sauvignon Blancs: fresh cut grass, grapefruit, lime, and citrus fruits. The sharp minerality and herbaceous style of this Sauvignon Blanc distinguishes it from its New World counterparts, most of which are typically more crisp and acidic. This Old World wine is an excellent match with white meats and fish, as well as a nice chevre cheese.
Jean-Paul Picard's Sauvignon Blanc grapes are all hand-picked and come from clay-limestone, south-facing slopes of the Grand-Chemarin and Coteaux de Marloup vineyards that have 30+ years old vines. The Picard family has been making wines for more than 400 years in the small village of Bue, an area considered to have some of the finest "terroir" in Sancerre.
Besides the Sancerre region, other appellations in France that are highly regarded for Sauvignon Blanc are Pouilly-Fume and Bordeaux. The climates of these two regions are well suited in slowing down the ripening on the vine and allowing more time for the grapes to develop the ideal balance of acidity and sugar levels.
Generally speaking, Loire Valley Sauvignon Blanc are typically more spicy, flowery, mineraly, and perfumey while those grown in Bordeaux are fruiter and sweeter in taste
.
Wine Notes
Bouquet/Taste: Fresh cut grass, grapefruit, lime, citrus
Finish: Moderate, smooth and round
Price: Approximately $22
NEW WORLD RED:
The Velvet Devil Merlot, 2011, Columbia Valley, Washington
I have to admit that for some reason, I've snubbed my nose every time I've seen this bottle on restaurant wine lists. I guess the name kind of scared me away and left a bad taste in my mouth even before I dared to take a sip ...
Well, on a recent date night , I heeded Mr. Vino's "don't judge a wine by its cover" advice, ordered this wine and was pleasantly surprised. This rich, fruit forward, medium bodied, supple and smooth wine from Columbia Valley in Washington will set off fireworks in your mouth.
Made from 91% Merlot and 9% Cabernet Sauvignon grapes, this New World wine displays a beautiful bouquet of dark tart cherries, wood, and tobacco and tastes of bittersweet chocolate and dark fruit and berries. For the reasonable price, it's a wine with character and fierceness. Pair this wine with heartier winter dishes such as beef bourguignon and roast duck and enjoy!
Velvet Devil is made by Charles Smith, a wine pioneer and perhaps most impressively, a self taught winemaker with a New World meets Old World story. Born to a Welsh mother and French father, Charles grew up in Northern California. He discovered his passion for wine after spending several years in Scandinavia managing a rock band and wining and dining at magnificent locales with the rock stars. After Charles' stint in the music industry came to a close, he returned to the "New World," met a French winemaker who encouraged him to make his own grape "juice" and the rest is history.
Charles Smith wines follow a carpe diem philosophy. They are created to drink today, not a few years from now. Best of all, they demystify wine with their marketing of a very simple message: "it's just wine, drink it!"
Wine Notes
Bouquet: Dark tart cherries, anise, wood, and tobacco
Taste: Dark fruit and berries, bittersweet chocolate
Finish: Medium
Price: Approximately $11
OLD WORLD RED:
Hebrard Cotes du Bordeaux Superior 2011, France
I love everything French....and French wines are no exception. The Hebrard Cotes du Bordeaux Superior is a great example of a reasonably priced, everyday Old World wine. It's elegant, refined, has a great aromatic nose, is fruity in taste but more "earthy" than typical New World Wines at the same price point.
Unlike the Velvet Devil made from 100% Merlot grapes, this wine is made up of 60% Merlot and 40% Cabernet Sauvignon and has a more rustic, woody, yet smooth and silky taste. The bouquet and mouth are spectacular, the flavors are well balanced, but the finish is shorter than I expected. Nevertheless, it's a friendly wine at a value price and pairs beautifully with grilled meats and/or a beautiful array of cheeses
The Hebrard family name has long been associated with quality wines. In 1832 they purchased the reputable "Chateau Cheval Blanc," Premier Grand Cru Class A in the prestigious Saint Emilion appellation of France. More than 150 years later, the family sold the Chateau to an international group. The Hebrard wines are now a collaboration with approximately 30 winegrowers throughout the Bordeaux region. According to Maison Hebrard, they are keenly focused on building and cultivating relationships with winegrowers to maintain the quality and finesse associated with wines of Bordeaux.
Wine Notes
Bouquet/Taste: Cedar, lavender, spicy, clay
Finish: Short
Price: Approximately $13